Patek Philippe 5980R Nautilus Chronograph 18kt Rose Gold with Black/Brown Dial on a Bespoke Orange Rubber Strap with 18kt Rose Gold Fold-Over Deployant Buckle

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph (ref. 5980R) features the Caliber CH 28-520 C mechanical automatic movement; black-brown dial with date display at 3 o’clock; chronograph complication with 60-minute and 12-hour counters together in a single elegant monocounter at 6 o’clock; center sweep seconds hand, which also serves as the chronograph hand; and 40.5mm, 18k rose gold case on a hand-stitched, bespoke orange rubber strap with an 18k rose gold deployant clasp.

Patek Philippe originally launched the Nautilus in 1976 as a fun, casual watch (the octagonal shape of the case was designed to be reminiscent of a ship’s porthole), but it has evolved into the brand’s iconic sport watch.

The Nautilus case is immediately recognizable from its rounded squarish cushion shaped bezel. The strap is integral to the case. Dimensions are 40.5mm wide by 12.6mm thick. Being a sports watch, and with the name Nautilus, one could conclude that the case offers excellent water resistance… and it does, down to 120 meters. The case back features a sapphire crystal to view the automatic Patek Philippe movement. The front crystal is also sapphire. The chronograph pushers are semi integrated into the case side, next to the “shoulders” that protect the crown.

If you have never personally examined a Nautilus, you are missing one of the best finished watches ever, from any manufacturer. Featuring alternately brushed and polished 18kt Rose Gold surfaces, most case parts are also beveled to eliminate sharp edges. It’s unusual that a watch becomes famous for its case, but perfectly understandable when you examine, own and appreciate a Nautilus.

Movement is the automatic winding Patek Philippe Caliber CH 28-520 with 35 jewels and unique zirconia oxide ball bearings for the rotor to glide on. This chronograph caliber features column wheel construction, which is universally acknowledged to be the best engineered chronograph system ever devised (but expensive to build – hence its rarity).

Dial is Black/Brown color and features a date display at 3 o’clock. The dial surface features horizontal channeling which looks great, along with applied luminous hour markers. The chronograph sub dial at 6 o’clock consolidates the minutes and hours totalizer by deploying two hands. This system of displaying elapsed time is ingenious because the wearer can discern the elapsed minutes and seconds at a glance, instead of looking at separate sub-dials like all other chronograph interfaces use.